History & story.
Happiness Road — officially National Highway 4C — stretches 185 kilometres from Ha Giang city to Meo Vac town, passing through four karst plateau districts: Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac. On 10 September 1959, Ha Giang province issued the construction order under the Central Youth Volunteer Corps. Tens of thousands of volunteers from 16 ethnic groups across 8 northern provinces converged on Ha Giang, labouring in extreme deprivation — no machinery, no cement, no protective equipment — to chisel rock, blast through mountains, and open each metre of road over six years (1959–1965). A total of 2.2 million man-days were invested in these 185 kilometres.
The most difficult and dangerous section of construction was the 10 kilometres through Ma Pi Leng Pass, where sheer cliff faces drop 700–900 metres to Tu San gorge. In 1964, when construction reached this section, the Central Youth Corps established a 'suicide squad' — 20 young men selected from 300 volunteers, who worked 8 hours daily suspended by rope on the cliff face to drill blast holes. Each person drilled 80–100 centimetres per day in conditions of water scarcity, endemic malaria, and constant falling rock. They persisted for 11 months to open the 10-kilometre death section through Ma Pi Leng.
In March 1965, the entire road was completed. Four years earlier, in 1961, President Ho Chi Minh had visited the construction site and named the route 'Happiness Road' — expressing the wish that it would bring new life, better economic conditions, and happiness to the ethnic peoples of the karst plateau who had previously been completely isolated. Before the road, people on the plateau could only travel via horse paths — a journey from dawn to dusk just to reach Ha Giang city.
Today, Happiness Road is the backbone of the Ha Giang Loop — a motorbike circuit ranked among the most beautiful roads in Asia. Each year, hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and international visitors ride through here, conquering the hairpin turns of Ma Pi Leng Pass, looking down into Tu San gorge, and experiencing the dramatic beauty of the karst plateau. The Happiness Road Museum in Ha Giang city displays artefacts, photographs, and documents from the construction period — an important visit to understand the historical context of the entire journey.
A single working day for the Ma Pi Leng suicide squad: eight hours suspended by rope on vertical cliff faces, drilling 80–100 cm of blast holes, enduring falling rock and frontier cold.
VnExpress, 2019
Highlights not to miss.
The Happiness Road Museum in Ha Giang city is the ideal starting point before beginning the Loop. It displays documentary photographs of the construction process, artefacts from youth volunteer teams, maps, and road models. Of particular note is the exhibition on the Ma Pi Leng suicide squad with rare photographs of workers suspended on the cliff face in 1964. Admission 10,000 VND, open mornings and afternoons.
Happiness Road is the main axis of the Ha Giang Loop — a roughly 350 km motorbike journey (3–4 days) covering all four karst plateau districts. The route runs from Ha Giang city through Quan Ba Heaven's Gate, Yen Minh, Dong Van, Ma Pi Leng Pass, down to Meo Vac, then circles back via a different road. Many international riders rank this among the top 5 most beautiful motorbike routes in Asia.
At several points along Happiness Road — particularly near Ma Pi Leng Pass and in Dong Van town — memorial steles commemorate the youth volunteers who died during the road-building. Their names, from many different ethnic groups and provinces, are carved in stone by the roadside. Pausing to read those names gives the Loop journey a historical depth beyond a mere sightseeing ride.
If self-riding, carry a valid motorbike licence (Category A1 or above). Ha Giang traffic police regularly check documents at checkpoints along the route. Rental bikes from reputable shops come properly registered; still inspect the bike carefully before accepting it.
How to visit & get there.
Starting the Journey **Visit the Happiness Road Museum** in Ha Giang city before departing — 30 minutes there provides historical context for the entire journey. **Rent a motorbike** in Ha Giang city (150,000–250,000 VND/day), check brakes and tyres thoroughly before leaving.
Recommended Itinerary **Day 1**: Ha Giang → Quan Ba (Heaven's Gate) → Yen Minh (overnight). **Day 2**: Yen Minh → Dong Van → Lung Cu (overnight). **Day 3**: Dong Van → Meo Vac (via Ma Pi Leng) → return to Ha Giang.
Sources
- 1.55 năm Cung đường Hạnh Phúc trên trập trùng núi đá Hà Giang
Tuổi Trẻ · 2026-06-16
- 2.Những thanh niên cảm tử mở đường qua Mã Pì Lèng
VnExpress · 2026-06-16